Monday, March 27, 2006

Here is a pic and map of some of the islands we will be visiting soon:

Hell-Ville, the main city of Nosy Be (which means "big island"), is a little West of Ampasindava. For my project I'm thinking of going to Ambatozavavy and 2 other villages on the round island south of Nosy Be, Nosy Komba. Nosy Tanikely, where we wil be snorkeling, is that little green dot on the left of the A of Antrema (Nosy Komba).
Another map, though not so clear.
Aerial view of Nosy Be looking towards Nosy Komba, Tanikely and the Madagascar mainland that you can't really see. You can rent a mountain bike and go all over the place!
Limestone formations at Ankarana that we will also see (none of these are my pics).
I just pasted my last group email, sorry, me lazy right now.
By the way, the song I learned is called AFINDRAFINDRAO (bouge).
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Hello my friends,

We're finally leaving Diego Suarez, I'm so relieved! Vanee has already heard my complaints, but this last week and a half has been unbearable; I really don't like this city. My impressions may be completely off, but everything here, in comparison to Tana, just isn't as pleasant, and I am usually very eager to leave Tana because of its size and pollution.

The people I have encountered in Diego Suarez have been, for the most part, much less friendly than in other parts of Madagascar. In Tana or Fianarantsoa you can smile at someone on the street and they will automatically give you a large toothless smile in return. Here, they only frown and walk quicker. Forget trying to take pictures of people at the market, they just yell at you to put it away unless you offer them money. Everything here is for the purpose of tourism and the people are only interested in business.

If you're a girl, almost every man on the street has a reaction to you as you walk by. It's either cat calls or shouts. Some of the bolder ones will follow you and grab you arm or try to pinch your side! They only want a reaction and because of my time in latin america I'm quite used to this, but there's so much of it here it's hard not to get frustrated and bitter first thing in the morning walking to school. The first afternoon I walked home I was almost kissed! A lot of the men here are also "high" on a plant called Khat. It's a stimulant and they have to chew on the leaves for an hour or so before they get an effect from the juices.

The city is right by the water, but there's isn't any access to it because we're basically on a cliff. The nearest nice beach is called Ramena and that's an hour away on a terrible road. It is, however, beautiful and was very easily the highlight of our stay here.

I'm almost done with talking about Diego... ;)

Tonight I decided to rent a hotel room. I don't think I'm supposed to and I felt rather guilty about it, but I couldn't imagine making it through another night at my house. My family is fine, that wasn't the problem. They were helpful and inviting, although they didn't talk very much or seem interested in sharing with me. It was the sleeping situation that was nightmarish. After convincing them to leave the window open just a tad, I though the heat would be bearable, but I forgot about the insects. I would have swarms of mosquitos around me during the nights. They're really persistant little buggers. Around 3 AM I would shine my flashlight on my arm or leg only to find bite after bite with a dead mosquito here and there. Barf. But what can I say, I signed up for it, right? One good thing. I got tons of reading done! I read till 4AM last night and then slept for 40 mins, took a long bucket bath and went to a hotel to have an expresso with two other exhausted students.

Tomorrow we finally leave Diego and head South but car. We'll be camping for about 4 nights first in a park (Ankarana, known for the "tsingy" or limestone formations supposedly millions of years old) and then on the beach for the other 2 nights. During the day we'll either be exploring the park or taking boats to small islands known for incredible snorkeling. We should have a chance to see sea turtles and they say there are often whale sharksthere also! How SWEET would that be! We'll stay in Nosy Be for the weekend (hotel) and then on Monday we'll fly back to Tana. I am thinking of doing my one month ISP in that region, so I'm excited to see what it's like.
Some of you may already know, but I'm almost sure I'm doing my project on small scale artisanal fishing communities of that region.The doors were opening all over the place for that like contacts and research material. I'm really excited, but there's still a week or so to decide so we'll see, eh?

I love you guys, I really do! I miss all of you, especially this last week in (barf) Diego Suarez. Wouldn't it be nice if we could all be in one beautiful place forever and ever? Oooo, like heaven? Heaven...I'm in heaven...
Well, friends from all over the world, I must retreat to my luxury hotel room (6 bucks, but it has a fan and a mosquito net...SCORE!). I would appreciate prayers for wisdom and discipline and also for health. God is SO good though. They should really write a song about that. It doesn't have to be long, just a simple song saying how God is so good and how he's so good to me.

Veloma dudes and dudettes,

Sandra

Saturday, March 18, 2006

Hi all,

Sorry to not have updated this in a while, I just always need to set a lot of internet time aside to put one of these up. Most of you probably received my email about going to Diego Suarez. We leave early tomorrow at 6 and it's only a 2 hour flight so we should be there by 10. The city is right on the coast, but because it used to be a military base much of the ocean is inaccesible from the main city. I still don't really understand why but that's what I remember Roland, my academic director, saying. We'll be there for 10 days followed by a 4 day camping excursion on the peninsula across Nosy Be. We'll then spend one night in Nosy Be, which seems like way too little time considering it's the nicest island of Madagascar. We'll be snorkeling and spear fishing and riding pirogues and avoiding prostitutes...

I'm super excited to get out of Tana. I like it here a lot, but I've been looking forward to seeing the ocean and also to going to a less polluted place. The cold I caught 2 weeks ago is sill having an effect on me and I feel like it has a lot to do with how polluted it is in the city. Any pollution is a lot of pollution compared to Boulder! Also, Diego is significantly warmer, but sill relatively dry which is good for my residual cold. However, there are a whole other set of worries with going to a new place. I'll be living with a new host family so that'll be somewhat uncomfortable to get accoustomed to. Not to mention a whole other city to navigate...but what am I talking about, that's fun and exciting. Silly.

I feel kind of feverish and I have some diarrea, what does that mean? Maybe I have malaria.

This last week was our Music and Dance module. Basically every morning we would have a lecture on music and cultural identity etc, a language class (either French or Malagasy) and then after lunch a famous group of musicians, each representing a different region of MDG, would come and play for us and make us dance. Then last night we had a party because the other SIT group based in Fort Dauphin (aka the Ecology group) were up in Tana. There were like 8+ different bands playing for us and we were dancing the afternoon away, it was a lot of fun. For some reason I'm considered a good dancer because I can keep a beat. Haha.

So, I guess I'm not going to complete my village stay blog. It'll take way too much time. I just CAN'T do it...

I learned how to play a very typical Malagasy song on the guitar, but I can't remember what it's called. I'm planning on purchasing a Valiha and a Kabosy to take back with me to Colorado. I'm also considering a Djembe because they're so cheap here. I don't know how the heck I'll carry all of that to the US though...

Anyway, I should get going. I have a paper to write before the trip tomorrow and I don't know what to do it on. I've attached some random pics:

This is a view of Tana from the first hotel we stayed at, the Raphia

An angry Zebu that chased us all over the place until we climbed against a wall of mud. It as hilarious but slightly scary too, they're big ol' animals! Fact of the Day: the word for cow/zebu in Malgache is Omby, which comes from Swahili.

I saw mom at the airport in Paris! Doesn't that look like mom?!

OK, big kiss!

Thursday, March 09, 2006

A couple of photos from my time in Andasibe: These are a few kids in Andasibe. They got a kick out of the digital camera but didn't quite know what to do when I would point it at them.


Here is a pic of Madagascar Boa I got to hold on the way to Andasibe, it was a spectacular animal and used to being handled.

Tuesday, March 07, 2006

So, the Village stay. What a week! It was fantastic.

We left Tana early Thursday morning and drove to Ambositra, a town halfway to Fianarantsoa. We stayed one night there at some pretty bungalows, went into town and bought beautiful woodworks for very little money ( I may have even gotten some souvenir girfts...) and then had a little party that night. The next morning we drove the rest of the way to Fianarantsoa (I'm still not sure if I'm spelling that right) and got to the Hotel Chez Papillon in time to have lunch and chill out for a bit.

Next on the agenda was a reunion with the Malagasy Mahomby students that would travel with us to the village and act as "facilitators" while there. Some of us were paired up, but others had 2 malagasy partners. My girl was called Tahina and she was extremely shy, but sweet. It was a little akward at first, but it got a little better with time. I found out that there would be 4 other american students in the same area in different villages, which was a comfort to know. Another girl, Allegra, would be in the same village but in a different house.

That night we were all excited and tried not to make too many expectations. Our group of 10 departed Chez Papillon at 6 am with way too many bags. We each had to take a huge gunnysack full of supplies for our host families. It was a ridiculous amount of stuff.
We all piled into a taxi-brousse that was made to hold about 14 people in the back and 3 in the front. There were three in the front, but about 25 in the back. I guess I got lucky because I was put in the front with another american girl, a stinky driver and about 3 tubs of gasoline. We drove for approx 3 hours, stopping in a random spot every half hour as bathroom breaks. Police control on the intercity roads is pretty ridiculous too. They would stop the taxi-brousse about every 4 km! I think we bribed every other policeman, though, just to speed up the process.
We arrived at Mahaditra at around 12:30, just in time for the weekly market. Out in the countryside the people really don't see Vazah that often, or at least it seemed like that was the case by how much they stared at us! We then went to the Mayor's building while he filled out some paperwork and then we divided up and went to our separate villages. From Mahaditra, my village was 4 km away and, carrying all the stuff, it took about 1 + hour to get there. Once outside Mahaditra, it was obvious how spectacular the Betsilean rice paddies were. They use a system of terraces very unlike the rice fields around Tana.

Eventually we had to wind our way through the narrow pathways between the rice paddies, trying not to fall over with all our bags. Allegra took a small fall just as we exited them though, hehe. I was dropped off at my house and we ate right when we got there. It was a tasty meal, rice and a little bit of chicken. I was exhausted at that point so I took a nap, but I didn't really sleep much because there were so many flies in the room. They kept on landing on my lips and it was absolutely disgusting. When I got up I had to go to the bathroom and they pointed me in the direction: the woods. I was quite excited, actually, because that meant I could get away from all the stares (they were staring at me even while I was sleeping fom outside the window). You really get used to being stared at here. I'm going to get back to the US and wonder why no one is staring at me!

I slept the worst night since arriving to Madagascar. There were at LEAST 20 mice on the floor next to my bed eating the left overs of dinner. The bed was flea infested and I got at least..mm...20 bites, and I could hear cockroaches all over. There were probably 20.
So that was my first night there, but I'm too tired to write more right now. I'm still fighting a cold. Bye!

Monday, March 06, 2006

Hello. I won't be able to write about the village stay right now because I don't have enough time or energy (I'm fighting a cold), but there are a ridiculous number of pictures at the following websites:

ANDASIBE
http://colorado.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2027787&l=c1a4a&id=10209965

http://colorado.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2027788&l=0ba62&id=10209965

http://colorado.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2030615&l=868e5&id=10209965

IN TANA
http://colorado.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2030638&l=4193b&id=10209965

VILLAGE STAY
http://colorado.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2030621&l=efae3&id=10209965

http://colorado.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2030629&l=0f0e8&id=10209965

http://colorado.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2030632&l=07d5d&id=10209965

http://colorado.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2030633&l=cfb9f&id=10209965

http://colorado.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2030637&l=b64a2&id=10209965

Love you all, God bless you.